So in my last post I mentioned that my new year’s resolution is to sew for myself this year. In fact, I’m going to sew myself a whole new wardrobe! This is being driven in part by the Wardrobe Architect Challenge on the Colletrie blog. In part it is also from my desire to learn how to make sewing patterns (for the eventual goal of creating a children’s line of clothing). After umming and awwing over whether to spend the money on a Craftsy course on patternmaking I finally went ahead and did it, and boy am I glad I did!
I’m currently working through Suzy Furrer’s pattern making basics class: the bodice sloper. It’s a really enjoyable class, and she’s a very good teacher. She really walks you through all the steps you need to start making patterns the right way. I like her steady pace – it’s not so slow that I’m bored, or so fast that I can’t keep up. I still end up pausing the course quite a bit while I draw whichever section of the pattern I am working on. If I’m watching the chapter a second time I can make the speed 1.5x normal to get through it quicker (I do this sometimes if I think I missed something). Suzy is pretty good at answering questions on the forum quickly, which makes me think that this class was a really good value. I can upload pictures of my moulage and sloper and get critiqued by the instructor.
So the first part of making your own patterns is to create the moulage. A moulage is a *very* tight fitting garment that is like a blueprint of your body. From the moulage you can then create a sloper. The sloper is like the master pattern from which you can create any kind of pattern. It has a bit more ease than the moulage and should be more comfortable to wear, but is still quite fitted. I have finished my moulage, and I’m satisfied with the fit. I’ve decided to use the mockup of my moulage to pad out my dress form.
My Body Double
I stuffed a bra for her and then added some padding, checking to see that her measurements matched up with mine. I sewed up the moulage but opened up a side seam so that I could get it onto the dummy, after which I hand-sewed the side seam to close it. It looks like there are still a few areas that I need to smooth out. It probably would have been easier if I had some batting that I could layer rather than just the polyfill. The polyfill makes her look a bit lumpy. Ah well, she’ll do in a pinch.
Do you have a dress form or a fit dummy? Did your measurements fit perfectly, or did you have to pad her up in a few areas? Would love to hear any methods that are different to mine!
*In the spirit of full disclosure, any links to Craftsy are affiliate links, which means that I may get a commissions if you decide to purchase anything from them. I only recommend products that I use and love myself, so I know you’ll be in good hands.